Profile

L’Express proves that a French bistro in New York can both cater to a mainstream clientele (it’s smack in the middle of the Park Avenue South party zone) and maintain some kind of discipline in the kitchen. Cocktails are strong and classic; beers include several lush, complex French and Belgian brews; and the atmosphere plumbs our collective memory of brasseries past without descending (too deeply) into stereotype. Above all, the menu is uncompromising, with Lyonnais specialties sitting right next to less-challenging fare like steak au poivre, salads, and tilapia. Speaking of neighbors, yours will be well-dressed veterans of the Odeon, model types sipping apple martinis at the bar, and Francophiles delighted to discover that this place is open 24 hours a day. — Matt Gross

Sat.—Sun., 10 a.m.—5 p.m.

Note
Reservations are only accepted on weekdays for parties of 5 or more.