L’Express

The rating scale of 0 to 100 reflects our editors’ appraisals of all the tangible and intangible factors that make a restaurant or bar great — or terrible — regardless of price.

72 Totally Fine

This eternal French bistro has a ouais about it.

249 Park Ave. South, New York, NY, 10003

212-254-5858

http://lexpressnyc.com

Reserve on OpenTable

Known For

The lowdown

What’s the opposite of the Bermuda Triangle? Perhaps this eternal French bistro triangulated by the Gramercy Park, Park Avenue South, and Union Square party scenes where patrons embrace the magic of disappearing into the bar, booths, and tables. But it doesn’t get lost in the wee-hours fog of so many 24-hour spots; it both caters to a mainstream clientele and maintain some kind of discipline in the kitchen. Cocktails are strong and classic; beers include several lush, complex French and Belgian brews; and the atmosphere plumbs our collective memory of brasseries past without descending (too deeply) into stereotype. Above all, the menu is uncompromising, with Lyonnais specialties sitting right next to less-challenging fare like steak au poivre, salads, and tilapia. Speaking of neighbors, yours will be well-dressed veterans of the Odeon, model types sipping apple martinis at the bar, and Francophiles delighted to discover that this place is open 24 hours a day.

What you need to know

Recommended DishesSteak-frites

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelBring earplugs!