• Critics’ Pick
  • Lilia

  • Italian Seafood $20-$30
  • 567 Union Ave.
    Brooklyn, NY 11211
  • Neighborhood: Williamsburg
  • Phone: 718-576-3095
Lilia Photo
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Once upon a time, Manhattan was the destination for the city’s growing legions of high-minded pasta snobs, but lately I’ve noticed more and more of these finicky, opinionated souls migrating across the river to Brooklyn, where some of the great practitioners of this difficult, exalted art have recently set up shop among the hotels and nameless condos that are sprouting up all across the borough. “I feel like I’m dining in Jersey City,” one of the grumpy Manhattanites at my table whispered as we sat elbow-to-elbow in the crowded, narrow, slightly impersonal dining room of Lilia, which, as any Williamsburg Italian-food connoisseur can tell you, is the Brooklyn home of one of the city’s foremost pasta goddesses, Missy Robbins. The recently renovated garage space on the scissoring intersection of Union Avenue and North 10th Street has been fitted with a café operation that during the day sells pastries and excellent panini stuffed with ribbons of prosciutto or burrata cheese. After my Manhattan friends had found their bearings in the dining room, they had nothing but kind words for the talented chef’s restrained small-plates menu, which included golden fritters flavored in the manner of the Roman pasta dish cacio e pepe, tangles of perfectly al dente spaghetti tossed with lemon, chiles, and toasted bread crumbs, and the justly famous house agnolotti, which Robbins and her small army of pasta cooks fill with warm deposits of sheep’s-milk cheese faintly sweetened with honey.
http://lilianewyork.com
  • Hours

    Café: 7am-11pm Restaurant: Daily, 5:30pm-11pm

  • Prices

    $20-$30

  • Payment

    American Express Discover MasterCard Visa

  • Alcohol

    Full Bar

  • Reservations

    Recommended

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