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This Thai restaurant may share its name with a Hawaiian porn star, but the crisp interior doesn't play on it. Instead it showcases some of the traditional décor—a Buddha flanked by lotus and bicycle rickshaw photos—in a long room made brighter by light wood floors and hibiscus-patterned cloth napkins. The cooking shows the same clean, spirited aesthetic, beginning with tom kha soup, in which the coconut milk adds body to the broth without weighing it down, and minced pork and shrimp dumplings wrapped in translucent dough. Fragrant, spicy curries make up part of the menu, along with specialties such as the petd tamarind—gratifyingly crisp slices of duck complemented by subtly sweet tamarind sauce—and steamed fish in banana leaf, a fresh, tender striped bass with little seasoning. Vegetarians have the option of ordering stir-fry dishes without fish or oyster sauce. Many customers opt for take-out and delivery, so the crowd can be sparse, but the little things remind you that you're in Williamsburg, like the Thai delivery guy sporting a "100% Irish" T-shirt. — Karen Hudes

Tom kha, $4; petd tamarind, $15