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L'Impero

Critic's Pick Critics' Pick

45 Tudor City Pl., New York, NY 10017 40.749101 -73.970361
nr. 42nd St.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
212-599-5045 Send to Phone

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  • Cuisine: Italian
  • Price Range: $$$

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Critics' Rating: ***

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Reader Rating:

    8 out of 10

      |  

    20 Reviews | Write a Review

Photo by Shanna Ravindra

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Official Website

limpero.com

Nearby Subway Stops

4, 5, 6, 7, S at Grand Central-42nd St.

Prices

$21-$32

Payment Methods

American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Business Lunch
  • Lunch
  • Notable Chef
  • Prix-Fixe

Alcohol

  • Full Bar

Reservations

Recommended

Profile

This venue is closed.

In Manhattan’s spring shuffle of three-star toques, Fiamma’s Michael White now reigns in departed chef Scott Conant’s three-star kitchen at L’Impero. His menu reflects the dazzling sunniness of Southern Italy’s markets and his own unleashed exuberance. Clearly White is feeling reborn, madly in love with the intensity of lemons and eggplant and Pecorino from Campania, Sicily, Sardinia, with the sweetness of honey and vin cotto, a flavoring made of reduced wine must. “I have a partner who lets me make spaghetti chitarra on the metal cutter, handmade orecchiette, and my own homemade maccheroni,” he marvels. Tonight that very special maccheroni comes deliciously sauced with Neapolitan pork-shoulder ragù on the four-course prix fixe. The charming sommelier indulges us with a slightly chilled red from Alto Adige, perfect for a summer night. Burrata sits in a pool of gently spiced chilled tomato zuppa, clams with real clam savor ring a crispy cod fritter in a garlicky brodetto. There’s a delicious flurry of ingredients, with grilled octopus, celery hearts, olives, and bottarga vinaigrette. Roasted monkfish in a white-bean-and-mussel broth has a sharp tang of confited lemon. Admittedly you might never find dishes this busy in Italy, the land of simplicity. White’s spirited celebration can be over-the-top, as with grilled strip steak and corn crema, layered with sweet-and-sour peppers and rosemary salt. Well, it’s early. At some point, he may come to see that less can occasionally be more.

Prix-Fixe Menu

Three-course lunch, $35; four-course lunch, $52; four-course dinner, $64

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