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This venue is closed.

Inside a former booze shop on DeKalb Avenue's restaurant row, this space's past gets a shout-out via a faded remnant of the old liquor store sign hanging above and antique liquor bottles in the storefront windows. A serene back patio, comprised of wood-plank floors and peppered with shrubbery, is bigger than the inside dining room, in which nearly every seat provides a view into the bustling open kitchen. The menu is built on Southern classics like jambalaya, pan-fried catfish and not-so-short short ribs but also delves into further-out-of-borough oddities like crispy bacalao croquettes and wasabi-encrusted salmon. Although spices could generally be a bit more pronounced, the ingredients taste ultra-fresh and dishes exude comfort-food earthiness. House desserts, especially the mango and pineapple crème brulee, are vices worthy of the restaurant's namesake. — Justin Hartung

Short ribs, $15; mango and pineapple crème brulee, $4.50