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This reliable, family-run Tuscan place is frequented by locals who seem to have adopted the space as their own. The familial sensibility translates to the design: Comforting powder blue and yellow walls and rustic pottery frame the dining room. Everyday dishes are pepped up with welcome twists: The beef carpaccio, for example, is bolstered by hearts of palm and avocado, along with the customary slivers of Parmesan. Pastas are popular, and the tempting aroma of the truffle enhancement to a garganelli with shrimp is hard to resist. But the whole fish is the most impressive dish of all. Servers expertly fillet a plump, mellow and meaty orata, which tastes just plucked from the sea. A pitcher of olive oil, garlic and parsley comes on the side, though a spritz of lemon is really all it needs. — Kathleen Squires

Whole roasted orata, $28; beef carpaccio, $9