F, J, M, Z at Delancey St.-Essex St.; B, D at Grand St.
This venue is closed.
Large windows angle around the corner site that houses Little Giant; against these sits a banquette lined with haute-homey felt and cotton canvas pillows. An exposed brick ceiling undulates above. The two owners call the food seasonal American, emphasizing the greenmarket produce they gather and their wealth of house-made items, from sausage to condiments. The menu is sprinkled with puns, but even if you find these too coy don't let them deter you. Hazelnuts turn up in the sautéed scallops entrée, their toasty crunch a terrific counterpoint to the shellfish. Another outstanding main dish is the Swine of the Week, which despite the name changes seasonally. In one case, it's a heap of pulled Berkshire pork atop a buttermilk scone. The slightly smoky flavor of the meat amplifies when you taste it with its buttery supporting act. For dessert there are liquor-spiked renditions of floats and an egg cream. If you're sticking to solids, look for the sticky toffee pudding, paired with fruits like quince or banana.Recommended Dishes
Swine of the week, $24; sautéed scallops, $23; sticky toffee pudding, $8