Little Tong

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84 Very Good

This East Village restaurant specializes in Yunnanese rice noodles.

177 First Ave., New York, NY, 10003

929-367-8664

http://littletong.com/

Known For

The lowdown

When someone writes the book on the Asian-noodle scene of 21st-century New York, as someone surely will, Simone Tong, who was born in Chengdu and cooked at wd-50, might be remembered as the woman who liberated noodle soups from centuries of patriarchy, or at least proved there was East Village life (and worthwhile slurping) beyond ramen. In her chosen arena — the mixian noodles of Yunnan province — the noodle is rice, the broths are long-cooked but not excessively rich, and the varied toppings summon flavor and freshness from spice oils, pickled and fermented vegetables, bushels of herbs, and edible flowers. The pork wontons are Sichuanese, not Yunnanese, but don’t hold that against them.

Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

What you need to know

DrinksSake/Soju, Beer and Wine

Noise LevelCivilized