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Visually, Lo Scalo a delicate palate-cleanser of a place; a single small room, with a tiny bar in front and two neat rows of tables covered in crisp white linen stretching along the walls. The room is lit by two baroque chandeliers in a flat, doctorï申s-office light. This prim, tiptoe quality shows up in chef Mauro Mafriciï申s cooking, too. There are a variety of satisfying, deceptively simple salads, like one made with small roast artichokes and bits of quail, and a plate of grilled swordfish layered with green-tomato salsa and fat Sicilian capers. Mafrici, a grizzled veteran of some of the cityï申s renowned Italian kitchens (Felidia, I Trulli), constructs his menu in a fashionable but barely decipherable way, according to eight different ingredient groups. The worst of the bunch is the sole group; the best are the lamb and the artichoke. Many of the larger entrï申es (indistinct veal, overcooked duck wrapped around bouncy slices of pork) are more perfunctory, although the desserts are as good as youï申ll find in most Italian neighborhood joints, especially the fresh-made mascarpone, and the coffee-gelato affogato, splashed with espresso and served in three white demitasse cups. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Chef Mafrici offers not one but three tasting menus ($48, $58, and $64), which he will concoct according to your personal whim.

Vitello, Risotto, Stuffed quail, Lamb lasagne, Coffee-gelato affogato.