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Tex-Mex seems to be falling out of vogue at the moment, thanks to an influx of pure-blooded Mex-Mex eateries doling out regional south-of-border specialties. But that hasn't stopped Carroll Gardens crowds from cramming into the two floors and back garden of Lobo, which recently branched out to a new, nearly identical outpost on Fifth Avenue in Park Slope. Though Lobo does its darnedest to convince tequila-craving diners that they've stumbled into an authentic bordertown cantina--witness the sun-bleached longhorn skulls, the barbed-wire sculptures, the rice and beans-con-everything menu--most dishes are too bland to be considered authentic. An enchilada and taco combo known as The Wolf could benefit from peppery flame, as could the mushy, corn-deprived pork tamales and rubbery chipotle shrimp. The saving grace undoubtedly comes in the form of the generously spiked margaritas, all made with a choice of fresh juices and a well-parsed selection of premium tequilas.

  — Jon Steinberg

Reservations accepted only for groups of five or more.

Blood-orange margarita with silver patron tequila, $8.75