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Near the northern tip of Brooklyn, a red neon light reading simply, “LOBSTER,” leads the way into a New England style lobster shack. Inside, thick, wooden plank tables are reminiscent of Maine, while outside, a large patio is full of communal picnic tables. Whether it’s an avocado and grapefruit salad, a tasty corn bisque, or cheddar macaroni and cheese, chef Justin Ernsberger (Walter Foods, Mermaid Inn) has found a surefire way to improve any dish: add generous amounts of fresh lobster. The traditional New England lobster roll features minimal mayo and celery, keeping the focus on the pile of meat underneath, all in an authentic flat-bottom bun. A warm, buttered version will please Connecticut natives, while a club version with avocado and bacon offers an innovative twist. For those not interested in lobster, if that’s possible, a handful of other rolls (crab, clam, oyster) and sandwiches (crab cake, salmon, tuna melt, angus burger) are available. The hefty steamed one-and-three-quarter-pound lobster dinner comes complete with potatoes and corn on the cob. A cocktail list, including a lobster claw Bloody Mary, is joined by a handful of New England beers, like Belfast Bay Lobster Ale (Maine), Narragansett Lager (Rhode Island), and Sankaty Light (Massachusetts). — Daniel Benjamin

New England lobster roll, $17; onion rings, $4