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A beautifully restored 130-year-old Clinton Hill pharmacy complete with apothecary drawers and rolling ladders right out of Henry Higgins's library is the charming backdrop for this terrific Tuscan restaurant. Two young chefs recruited from Italy turn out uncommon antipasti and salads; main dishes like luganega sausage with cannellini beans; and a wealth of exquisitely sauced pastas like beet maltagliati. The excellent house wines are sold "consumption"-style. The bottle is left on the table, you help yourself, and whatever's left is theatrically measured with a homemade stick. It's the most fun you can have in a drugstore without a prescription. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Seafood charcuterie, $14; shrimp with chick peas, $10.50; beet maltagliati, $12.75; guitar string con le sarde, $12.50