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Modeled after a cabin in the Adirondacks and situated on an off-the-beaten-path Williamsburg corner, Lodge hits nearly all high notes. Sticking with the natural, open-air theme, two sides of the restaurant are thrown open to the sidewalk. Pine shipped in from upstate New York has been carved into paneling and unique carved wooden chairs. The plush lounge section near the bar, where youngsters sip mojitos, limoncello martinis, and low-price beer and single-batch bourbons, has faux antler chandeliers and tables made from tree stumps. Dishes change slightly daily, based on greenmarket offerings. Kale caesar salad, two varieties of fries (yucca fries and Yukon gold), and mac and cheese with bacon are slices of the American West. Grilled Mahi Mahi is matched with macadamia-avocado salsa. Fried chicken is a model of what fried chicken should be, with thick battered skin and succulent, plentiful meat, offset by iceberg slaw. Even if you're stuffed, consider ordering the caramel pretzel bar. Lodge is worth the hike. — Timothy Cooper

More than a dozen wines are available by the glass, and there's a wide selection of canned American beers. The single-batch bourbons are worth a try.

Grilled hanger steak, $19; Lodge hamburger with cheese, $11