Profile

Harlem's Strivers' Row, noted for its pristine Renaissance Revival brownstones, is also the home of Londel's, an upscale Southern restaurant with Cajun and Continental touches. Perenially bow-tied proprietor Londel Davis, a charismatic retired New York City police officer, opened the elegant eatery in 1994. The front room has a stately full bar and impressive photographic shrine to patrons both political and popular, like Mayors Dinkins, Giuliani, and Bloomberg, President Clinton, Henry Kissinger, Ozzie Davis, and Mariah Carey. Both of the adjoining dining rooms are appointed with beige hardwood floors and elegant light green and burgundy walls, trimmed with wainscoting. For appetizers, mustard cream sauce enriches golden-fried, spicy crab cakes. Fried whiting fingers, shrimp cocktail, and Cajun wings also appeal. On the entrée side, Southern fried chicken is supremely moist, center-cut pork chops are tender, and Louisiana blackened catfish is flaky and mildly spiced. Side dishes like firm collard greens flavored with smoked turkey, candied yams awash in cinnamon, and creamy mac and cheese stand out. Entrees like sautéed prawns with capers and salmon with coriander butter may evoke haute, but a nutmeg-scented sweet potato pie is down-home all-American and blissfully ethereal. Live jazz enlivens Friday and Saturday nights. — Michael Anstendig

Jazz resounds on Friday and Saturday nights; $5 cover charge

Gospel Sunday Brunch
Brunch served all day from 11:30 a.m.—5 p.m., reservations recommended

Louisiana blackened catfish, $19.95; sauteed prawns, $22.95; barbecued baby back ribs, $17.95; smothered pork chops, $19.95