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Loring Place

Critic's Pick Critics' Pick

21 W. 8th St., New York, NY 1011 40.732967 -73.999744
nr. Fifth Ave.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
212-388-1831 Send to Phone

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  • Cuisine: American Nouveau, Pizza
  • Price Range: $$$

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Critics' Rating: **

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Reader Rating: Write a Review
Photo by Melissa Hom

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Official Website

loringplacenyc.com

Hours

Sun-Thurs, 5:30pm-10:30pm; Fri-Sat, 5:30pm-11:30pm

Nearby Subway Stops

A, B, C, D, E, F, M at W. 4th St.-Washington Sq.; 1 at Christopher St.-Sheridan Sq.

Prices

$16-$33

Payment Methods

American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Bar Scene
  • Dine at the Bar
  • Good for Groups
  • Great Desserts
  • Hot Spot
  • Notable Chef
  • Open Kitchens / Watch the Chef
  • Private Dining/Party Space
  • Design Standout
  • Reservations Not Required
  • Online Reservation

Alcohol

  • Full Bar

Reservations

Recommended

Profile

If it’s true that the world of cooks and restaurateurs can be divided, the way the philosopher Isaiah Berlin famously did with writers and thinkers, into “hedgehogs” (those deliberate souls who know one thing well) and “foxes” (those restless, artful Mozarts who know many things), then Dan Kluger would seem to be a card-carrying hedgehog. Unlike many impetuous young chefs these days, he spent years working his way up through the ranks of the Danny Meyer empire, before finding notoriety as the executive chef at Jean-­Georges Vongerichten’s restaurantABC KitchenWhen he decided to strike out on his own, back in 2014, his fans waited eagerly for the next move. Then they waited some more. In classic hedgehog style, it took Kluger over a year to find the perfect space for his perfect restaurant, and after cycling through countless options, finding the perfect name took even longer than that. As you’d expect, the rooms (a bar, a split-level dining space, and a subterranean private-events area) are filled with all sorts of practical touches, many of which echo the places Kluger has worked before. The chef also ran theABC Cocina tapas concept with Vongerichten, but it’s no surprise that his singular, hedgehog­like focus here is the kind of elevated, crowd-pleasing Greenmarket cooking that made his reputation at ABC Kitchen. The menus of the two restaurants are more or less structural carbon copies (on my visits, each featured three pastas and four pizzas), and like at ABC, the meal here begins with a bombardment of carefully sourced vegetables, crudi, and salads. I don’t recall ever enjoying hummus at ABC Kitchen, but that Japanese winter squash, kabocha, is paired with ricotta and toast at both restaurants (at  Loring Place, your toast is on the side), and if you order the pear salad here, you’ll find it tossed, not unpleasantly, with leeks and sugary walnuts instead of apples and candied pecans. This slight reshuffl­ing of  ingredients pops up throughout the  menu, and some of Kluger’s experiments work better than others.As dinner progresses, you get the feeling that the kitchen might have strained a little too hard to duplicate the successful recipes from ABC Kitchen without copying them exactly. That favorite Vongerichten garnish, jalapeño, was sprinkled on everything, including several of the overworked (though nicely baked) whole-wheat pizzas (the best is with crab and fennel), and the pastas I tasted (ricotta-stuffed agnolotti with parsnips, spaghetti drowned in spinach and a slick of chile oil) could have used an ingredient or two less. Still, crowds of revelers are jamming into the boisterous downtown space to hoist a nice selection of classic and newfangled cocktails at the sometimes imposingly noisy bar. The wine list is deep and varied enough to enliven any meal (there are 17 Champagnes to choose from), and so are the best of the polished, neo-comfort-food desserts, like the spongy choco­late “Hostess cupcake” filled with orange crème fraîche, and  an impressive artisanal, post-­gourmet version of a Dairy Queen Blizzard.

Ideal Meal

Hummus and/or butternut fries, chopped salad and/or leeks and pears, whole-wheat pizza with crab and/or the crispy chicken, Pekin duck with kale and almonds, vanilla ice cream “Blizzard.”

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New York Magazine Review
Adam Platt's Full Review  (01/23/17)

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