Profile

In a world of franchised Mexican spots like Chipotle and Taco Bell, and high-end nuevo-Latino joints like Rosa Mexicano and Dos Caminos, it’s nice to know that low-pretense, low-budget taquerias like Los Pollitos continue to thrive, despite outer-borough exile in a Spanish-speaking stronghold of deepest Brooklyn. But still. The Sunset Park home of this three-restaurant Brooklyn chain is the one that started it all, and it shows, for better and for worse. You won’t find any of the kitsch-tastic atmosphere of the more gentrified shops, Los Pollitos II and III, in leafy Park Slope and groovy Fort Greene. El primero is as bare bones as it gets and serves food as simple and unapologetic as its décor—a scattering of white-clothed tables and some artwork that looks like it was donated by the Salvation Army. Still, the food—consistently fresh and flavorful Mexican cuisine— is familiar and good, like overstuffed burritos, soft tacos, nachos covered in melted cheese, tostadas, sopas, flautas, and plantains. It’s hard to be an urban snob on a pleasantly full stomach. — Andrew Sessa

Super nachos with roast pork, $6.50; burrito, $7.50; taco, $2.50