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In a world of franchised Mexican spots like Chipotle and Taco Bell, and high-end nuevo Latino joints like Rosa Mexicano and Dos Caminos, it’s nice to know that low-pretense, low-budget taquerias like Los Pollitos continue to thrive, despite outer-boro exile in a Spanish-speaking stronghold of deepest Brooklyn. But still. The Sunset Park home of this three-restaurant Brooklyn chain is the one that started it all, and it shows, for better and for worse. You won’t find any of the kitch-tastic atmosphere of the more gentrified shops, Los Pollitos II and III, in leafy Park Slope and groovy Fort Greene. El primero is as bare-bones as it gets, and serves food as simple and unapologetic as its décor—a scattering of tables and some art work that looks like it was donated by the Salvation Army. Still, the food—consistently fresh and flavorful Mexican cuisine— is familiar and good, like overstuffed burritos, soft tacos, nachos covered in melted cheese, tostadas, sopas, flautas and plantains. It’s hard to be an urban snob on a pleasantly full stomach.
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