Profile

The third crown jewel in the Los Pollitos empire freshens up the exposed-brick-and-hardwood-floor formula with tropical-color walls and big bowls of fresh avocados at the bar. Like its predecessors, this cantina does classic Mexican fare right, as long as you skip the more adventurous fare like octopus. Grilled sope is a bounty of flavorful riches: a large homemade corn tortilla topped by refried beans, onions, lettuce, cheese, tangy tomato sauce, and, ideally, beef. Ask for a side of fried plantains with your chicken quesadilla and you won't even need dessert. There's sidewalk seating come warm weather, and if you've had enough margaritas, the whoosh of traffic can suffice for waves. It's about as South of the Border as the north side of Myrtle Avenue gets. — Jennifer Cacicio

Beef sopes, $5.75; sweet fried plantains, $2.50