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A far cry from the endearingly dumpy Pratt campus traps that line Myrtle Ave., Los Pollitos III is a squeaky-clean nuevo fusion offshoot of the Los Pollitos chain. While hailing itself as Mexican with a bonus Italian roster, you can spy a few Spanish and Caribbean influences in dishes like paella and pernil al horno (roasted pork shoulder). Foolproof Maduros are, unfortunately, one of the few bright spots on a menu that resembles a culinary greatest-hits list but fails on nearly every count: Lentil soup drowns in garlic and cilantro; a shrimp-stuffed avocado relleno is lukewarm and mismatched. Italian standards fall short as well, with lamb chops emerging dry and stringy; every course demands a generous dash of salt. Another drawback: Los Pollitos doesn’t boast the student-rate prices that might justify the blandness. — Patrick Coffee

Shrimp Fajita, $13.95