Accidental pizzaiolo Mark Iacono opened Lucali as a labor of love, to save the local candy store of his Carroll Gardens youth from an uncertain, generic fate (i.e., becoming a Subway or Dunkin’ Donuts, no doubt). After devoting himself to the monklike regimen of making old-fashioned thin-crust, brick-oven pizzas, Iacono has created a business that has instantly become woven into the neighborhood fabric, a cozy, softly lit, and effortlessly soulful spot where families commune over the simple pleasures of Iacono’s rough-hewn, satisfying pies, all of them made front and center at a workstation that looks like a stage. Vestiges from the candy store hang on the brick walls, along with a chalkboard menu restricted to pies and calzones. It’s cash-only, BYOB, and like Graydon Carter’s Waverly Inn, not really officially open, according to Iacono, but the lack of familiar trappings only adds to its charm.
Best of New York Awards
- You Can Feel Good About Eating This Inception Doughnut Because It’s Vegan
- Roberta’s Set to Take ‘Significant’ Investment From Tisch Family Member
- Watching a Machine From the 1800s Make Candy Is a Surprisingly Satisfying Way to End the Week
- NYC Can Start Fining Restaurants for Salt-Label Violations
- Broadway’s Megan Hilty Eats Her First Proper Dinner at Sardi’s