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14 First Ave.,
New York, NY 10003
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The Balthazar/Pastis empire has spawned dozens of budget-priced brasserie imitators. This cramped, very loud First Avenue fave near Houston Street is one of the less egregious copycats, right down to the distressed mirror and the filet mignon au poivre, scarfed down by yakkety office drones in Prada knockoffs. Quirky neighborhood characters populate the small bar, and the enthusiastic proprietress always seems to be giving out free stuff.
Recommended DishesBouillabaisse served Marseilles-style, $32; rabbit in a dijon mustard sauce, $26; clams or oysters in season, market price
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