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An institution in Brooklyn's Chinatown, Lucky Eight packs its dozen tables nightly with several generations of hungry families. Tanks of sea creatures—eel, kingfish, crayfish—and hanging roast ducks may provide a dubious greeting, but further in, beyond the fossilized shark fins, relatives cozy up to neat, glass-topped tables, where they order something from the tanks, perhaps, prepared with little fanfare. Lucky Eight’s two most popular dishes are Pride of Lucky Eight and T-bone steak. The former seasons baby squid, springy abalone, dried scallions, and moist shiitake mushrooms with sesame oil and ginger; the latter nestles medium-rare meat under a pile of crunchy asparagus. In Chinese culture, the number eight is providential. Yet it isn’t luck that draws this loyal following. It's the kitchen's preternatural way with a wok. — Laurel A. Fantauzzo

Pride of Lucky Eight, $14.95; shark-fin soup, $12.50; T-bone steak, $16.95

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