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Jauntily brush-stroked onto wood, the phrase “unity through diversity” is a fitting welcome for a restaurant with no qualms about serving bbq, Cajun, Tex-Mex, and yes, sushi. A block from Long Island City’s waterfront, the cavernous bi-level roadhouse seems very un-NYC, and in a way it is; Lucky Mojo is the reincarnation of a shuttered Upper West Side offshoot of Jacques-Imo’s, a New Orleans institution. The original’s ramshackle quirk is reproduced in sparkly, broken glass mosaics, bottle cap collages and folksy outsider art paintings. Genre-hopping is encouraged; upstairs, sushi chefs helm a bar that churns out surprisingly edible rolls using crawfish, pico de gallo and Tabasco in addition to rice covered standards. Savory, rich cheesecake packed with shrimp and alligator sausage that’s reminiscent of kielbasa comes smothered in a spicy Creole sauce. The eatery turns out decent facsimiles of traditional shrimp po’ boys on French bread simply dressed with mayonnaise, lettuce and tomato. It’s not The Big Easy, but after a few pints of Abita ale customers might at least forget about the East River down the block. — Krista Garcia

Spicy crawfish roll, $8.75; shrimp and alligator sausage cheesecake, $8.95; shrimp po boy, $9.25