Phuoc “Johnny” Huynh got his start in the Brooklyn food scene at Williamsburg’s popular Smorgasburg market, where he served and sliced Texas-style brisket at Lonestar Empire with his former An Choi chef Dennis Ngo. With Lucy’s, his first restaurant, Huynh has returned to his roots, opening up a place down the block from the apartment where he grew up, and still lives, and serving a limited menu inspired by the Vietnamese food of his ancestors. The space is tiny, with just one communal table, but the bright colors and decorations are loud without feeling cluttered and evoke the sort of takeout shop that would have once filled this space. The entry-level sandwich sports a thick layer of brisket, and so it goes that purists may be upset that there’s no pork to be found. But, seriously, pay no mind: The bánh mì brisket is brought up in the same spiced broth used in the nontraditional but formidable pho, which imparts a mushroomy funk.