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Lumi’s Italian cuisine nods to sunny Tuscan influences, incorporating light tomato-based sauces, lots of vegetables, cannelloni beans, and an unusual bounty of fresh herbs lavished on the plate. While the food is always beautifully presented, the kitchen can be inconsistent. The cod fillet with a hearty Livornese sauce of tomato and whole olives hits the right salty and piquant notes, and asparagus tortelli is chewy and earthy, with diced fresh asparagus and small twists of sweet roasted red peppers sprinkled like confetti on the plate. On the other hand, the grilled red snapper comes with heaping amounts of grilled endive and an entire half-head of ruddy chicory. Desserts are also hit or miss: Mango-mousse is intensely fruity, but the caramel-chocolate cake is too dry. Still, the interior is comfortable, with brown painted walls and graceful silver sconces a backdrop to conversations being had by the silver-hair and bow-tie set and by fashionable young couples with small children and large accessories. — Kara Newman

Merluzzo alla Livornese, $27.50