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Usually it’s the other way around: A Manhattan hot-spot restaurant takes pity on the poor undernourished masses across the river, and opens a branch office in Kings County. Boerum Hill’s Italian small-plates specialist Lunetta, however, attempts the comparatively rare Brooklyn-to-Manhattan culinary commute, and judging by the popularity of the original and this city’s unwavering hunger for Italian food, it should do all right. Chef-co-owner Adam Shepard is bringing his house-made ricotta, his toasted-garlic-tomato-sauce meatballs, and his cavatelli with braised lamb. The design, unlike the Brooklyn space that never really changed from when it was the Asian-influenced Taku, is heavy on the old-world charm, and aims to evoke Arthur Avenue and Italian-American social clubs of yore. — Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

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