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We love this down-home Roman trattoria and not just for Mario Batali's celebration of odd animal parts and Italian delicatessen, or for partner Joe Bastianich's bid to bring depth and finesse to a casual Village joint's wine service. Weekend lunches are jammed with kids eating gourmet helpings of buttered spaghetti. The down-home front room is boisterous and perfect for large families, while the quieter back room is a place to teach your kids how to eat pasta with polish. We like the mood, the food, and the gentle prices, but so do legions of tuned-in New Yorkers. It's almost as tough a sanctum to crack as its pricier sibling, Babbo. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Lupa is best experienced at lunch, before the dinnertime hordes elbow in.

Ricotta gnocchi, $16; saltimbocca, $23

Related Stories

New York Magazine Reviews

• Gael Greene's Full Review (11/8/99)

Best of New York Awards

• Best Veggies (2002)
• Best Non-bistro Bistro (2000)

Featured In

• Where to Eat 2008 (1/7/08)
• A Gno-Mistakes Pasta Primer (10/2/06)
• Cheap Eats Guide 2006 (8/7/06)
• 101 Best New York Restaurants for 2006 (1/9/06)

Recipes at Lupa Osteria Romana

• Hot-and-Cold Spinach (2005)
• Ricotta Gnocchi With Sweet-Fennel-Sausage Ragù (2003)