1 at Houston St.; A, B, C, D, E, F, M at W. 4th St.-Washington Sq.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
We love this down-home Roman trattoria and not just for Mario Batali's celebration of odd animal parts and Italian delicatessen, or for partner Joe Bastianich's bid to bring depth and finesse to a casual Village joint's wine service. Weekend lunches are jammed with kids eating gourmet helpings of buttered spaghetti. The down-home front room is boisterous and perfect for large families, while the quieter back room is a place to teach your kids how to eat pasta with polish. We like the mood, the food, and the gentle prices, but so do legions of tuned-in New Yorkers. It's almost as tough a sanctum to crack as its pricier sibling, Babbo.Extra
Lupa is best experienced at lunch, before the dinnertime hordes elbow in.
Ricotta gnocchi, $16; saltimbocca, $23