Lupa Osteria Romana

The rating scale of 0 to 100 reflects our editors’ appraisals of all the tangible and intangible factors that make a restaurant or bar great — or terrible — regardless of price.

77 Solid

A budget-friendly baby Babbo.

170 Thompson St., New York, NY, 10012

212-982-5089

http://luparestaurant.com

Reserve on OpenTable

Known For

The lowdown

With its adrenaline-fueled bustle and sophistication on a shoestring, Lupa is the embodiment of a hip New York restaurant for people who love to eat. It’s also Babbo’s baby Roman-osteria brother, of course, and shares its culinary DNA (and, it requires saying, its ownership, which is in transition in the wake of partner Mario Batali’s sexual-assault allegations). House-cured meats and fish, terrific seasonal contorni, and simple but satisfying pastas are the backbone of a menu that also dips into fifth-quarter territory like the Roman classic pajata finta, loosely interpreted as a heady ragù of sweetbreads, tripe, and guanciale served with rigatoni.

What you need to know

Recommended DishesRicotta gnocchi; saltimbocca

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized