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The main fish here is cod with potatoes instead of lox with bagels, but in some ways Luzia's is less Portuguese than old-school Upper West Side. That means that diners come in more for the homey, neighborhood feel than for the food. A warm welcome livens up decent renditions of Portuguese standards, like Caldo Verde soup and a paella almost as big as its mother country. The food also gets a helping hand from an unusual and tasty wine list, which features strikingly different flavors from all over Portugal. If you don't know the Douro region from the Dão, just ask the friendly owners, a half Portuguese, half New Yorkese couple. Stop by on weekends for a brunch that represents both halves of the marriage, with lox finally putting in an appearance alongside the chorizo. — Lauren Aaronson

Luzia'a now serve 75 different tapas.

Grilled sardines, $18.95; authentic paella, $22.95; homemade rice pudding, $5