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Lyon’s interior is just as convivial and inviting as it appears from outside the restaurant’s large windows. Indeed, the publike feel of this place, modeled on a casual Lyonnaise “bouchon,” is its greatest asset. The interior is cozily divided into a series of three wood-paneled rooms, including a welcoming bar with several high-tops, probably the best place to take a meal. That’s because the food here is so heavy and generously portioned that a multicourse dinner is practically a digestive liability – it’s a wiser to order a tall beer or one of the well-priced bottles of wine (skip the out-of-place cocktails, which don’t pair very well with the food) and just hit a few of the menu’s highlights. These include fluffy pike quenelle, creamed and formed into oversized dumplings of sorts, served in an irresistible sauce of salty, reduced lobster stock. The pate board is more than two can handle, with generous slices of four kinds of charcuterie, nicely presented with a side tray of assorted pickles. Entrees carry on the giant portion sizes; while the lamb is nicely spiced with hints of nutmeg and cumin, and served with merguez and white beans, there’s too much of it. Bacon-wrapped branzino is less successful – heavy on bones and low on flavor. These large, country-style plates are presented with a flourish of service that seems a bit out of place, all the more reason to park it in the more casual front bar instead. — Jenny Miller