Sun-Thu, noon-4pm and 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, noon-4pm and 5pm-2am
G, L at Metropolitan Ave.-Lorimer St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Greenpoint, East Williamsburg, Williamsburg
If you don’t believe there’s such a thing as pure, unfussy (or un-greasy) Chinese home cooking, pay a visit to the M Shanghai Bistro & Den, on a quiet, leafy street in Williamsburg, where traditional Shanghainese dishes like green soy peas with tofu sheets are served to neighborhood hipsters sitting at communal tables made of lacquered pine. If you find some items a little too daunting, you can take refuge in healthful platters of sautéed morning glory in tea sauce, or four varieties of dumplings, including the finest example of the bedraggled, overexposed, overhyped Shanghai soup dumpling that I’ve tasted east of the mighty Yangtze.Recommended Dishes
Green soy peas with tofu sheets, $10; sautéed morning glory in tea sauce, $11