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Mable’s Smokehouse is a large but homey space built by husband and wife team Jeff Lutonsky and Meghan Love, featuring long wooden communal tables, vintage Coors memorabilia, rusted-bucket light fixtures, and a hodgepodge of vintage chairs. Guests order at the counter from a standard menu of classic southern recipes passed-down from Lutonsky’s mother and grandmother, Mable. The meat is tender and flavorful, but the barbecue sauce is truly the star of the show, providing a perfectly tangy kick to the pulled pork and beef brisket. This top-secret sauce is made three to four times daily to ensure freshness and is served warm on the pulled pork. The restaurant also serves St. Louis ribs and Schwab’s Oklahoma hot links, Fed-Exed straight in from Oklahoma City. No-frills side items are served in fairly small portions, so if you have a real appetite, order the deluxe platter which gives you the choice of three sides and three meats, and top it off with a slice of homemade pie. — Sara Idacavage

The restaurant also offers a rotating bar snacks menu of pleasantly lowbrow favorites including Rotel-Velveeta dip and Frito pie to soak up those $3 cans of Schmidt’s and spiked cherry-limeades.

Pulled pork sandwich, $9.95; Beef brisket platter, $14.95