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With bland decor in tones of beige, Madangsui feels a little like a mess hall—a neon-blue bug zapper on one wall certainly doesn't make the place more inviting. What is alluring: boisterous tables of friends chattering over the staccato of meat sizzling on their tabletop grills. Packs of Korean businessmen clink bottles of OB lager and eagerly await servers who toss chunks of rib eye from the fire in their direction. Of the extensive menu, the grill section is the main attraction—a tender and slightly fatty butterflied short rib comes close to perfection. Though tasty, appetizers like shrimp dumplings are rendered extraneous by an army of accoutrements that overtake tables that place BBQ orders. Among the onslaught of small dishes: a crock of fluffy steamed egg, a smoky bean-paste soup with cubes of velvety tofu, and a number of pickle variations including an above average kimchee. But there are hazards to cooking tableside: Despite massive vents, the room can get stiflingly smoky. And if you like your meat rare, keep an eye on your grub. In the worst cases, delicate items, like slivers of pork belly, frizzle and burn if your personal grillmaster isn't paying attention. — Edna Ishayik

Butterflied short rib BBQ, $31.99