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While Park Slope continues to explode with new, über-hip restaurants, Magnolia looks to fill a need for good grub served in a quiet and underlit room, with little of the clatter otherwise endemic to the American bistro atmosphere. A low mumble from diners at the bar may grow effusive on weekends, but at other times, Magnolia is the place on the corner where couples and friends meet for relaxed conversation over a drink and a bite. The food, a contemporary pastiche of American pub fare in full comfort mode, with a few international excursions, usually completes the picture well. Fried calamari has a satisfying crunch, and fat steamed mussels in white wine and Dijon mustard pair up nicely with a pint. The kitchen’s baby back ribs piled over mounded garlic mashed potatoes may be the epitome of tavern food: abundantly primal flavors and textures of fat, smoke, sugar and spice—easily matched by one of the bar’s by-the-glass wines. — Jack Robertiello

Sundays bring a classic brunch served from 11 a.m.—3:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, the restaurant serves a $24 three-course prix fixe dinner, a bargain in a neighborhood rapidly cranking up the bill of fare.

Crispy calamari, $10.50; smoked baby back ribs, $22