Maison Yaki

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New

The Olmsted team expands with a fun, affordable French-Japanese mash-up.

626 Vanderbilt Ave., Brooklyn, NY, 11238

718-552-2610

http://www.maisonyaki.com

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The lowdown

Chef Greg Baxtrom’s first restaurant, Olmsted, became a quick local favorite when it opened in 2016, thanks to its combination of Michelin-caliber ambition and neighborhood-friendly pricing. Now Baxtrom & Co. — including managing partner Max Katzenberg, wine director Zwann Grays, and head bartender Andrew Zerrip — have expanded across the street with a restaurant that is equal parts French bistro and Japanese yakitori joint. What does that mean, exactly? In practical terms, it means to expect dishes like “tempura frog legs Provençal” and escargots in shiso butter, as well as a host of skewers that would make Escoffier proud: scallops with sauce maltaise, dry-aged rib eye, and duck meatballs accompanied by an orange “sauce” that’s spherified to resemble an egg yolk. Perhaps the most interesting feature, however, are the prices: Nothing on the menu costs more than $9, meaning diners are practically obligated to try lots of different things.

Alan Sytsma