Maite

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82 Good

Colombian-expat Ella Schmidt cooks gnocchi, arepas, and every local, seasonal vegetable she can get.

159 Central Ave., Brooklyn, NY, 11221

718-366-3090

http://maitebushwick.com

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The lowdown

The menu at Maite (pronounced MY-tay) is written on a long chalkboard with minimal description and no differentiation between courses. But the friendly staff eagerly guides you through the references to Italian, Basque, and chef-partner Ella Schmidt’s native Colombian cuisines. Specific preparations depend on that day’s market haul: The fillings for the crisp, little empanaditas change all the time, which keeps things interesting, and you can count on mainstays like burrata and gnocchi in various form, although the exact plating can’t be predicted. Neither can the order in which they arrive, but that’s part of the appeal of this cozy neighborhood restaurant where you feel welcome to linger, drink, and eat for hours, yet never taste the same thing twice.

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