Something about the high ceilings, the twirling fans, and the simple wooden tables draped in kraft paper conveys that relaxed quality that every self-respecting trattoria aspires to. The pleasant wait staff and a crowd of happy locals reinforce the sense that you're welcome. As at Piadina and Gradisca, the owners' other Village spots, the food is a good bargain and tasty, if not surprising: Have any of the pastas—straightforward interpretations of traditional favorites, with an accent on fresh tomato-based sauces—or try the top-notch lamb chops. Then order a cappuccino and linger.Brunch
Sat.—Sun., noon—4 p.m.
Reservations are only accepted for parties of 4 or more.
Potato gnocchi, $14; grilled lamb chops, $28
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