Maloney & Porcelli claims it isn’t a steakhouse, but the tide of pinstripe and great hunks of meat suggest otherwise. The best dish, though, isn’t steak but a mammoth “crackling” pork shank—which arrives with a steak knife thrust deep into it—and the service couldn’t be nicer. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
Food is on par with similarly priced steakhouses: I had an excellent filet and a number of good sides (delicious fries). Service and atmosphere, however, were weak. We asked to be seated in a cooler part of the restaurant, but turned out that air conditioning had been cut off at another customer's request. Manager explained that I must be sweating because the front windows were open on this particularly muggy summer night. Obviously. Atmosphere in the back corner behind glass didn't feel quite right, maybe too bright with off-white walls lacking requisite dark wood accents -- not the meat mecca ambiance of a Peter Luger, Smith & Wollensky, Ben Benson's, Striphouse, Sparks, Gallagher's, Bobby Van's, Wolfgang's, or even the half a dozen or so chains. I asked to speak with the sommelier for alternatives to the old vine Burgundy that I was considering, and the twentysomething busboy-cum-waiter both ignored the request and mangled pronunciation of "vielle vignes" before attempting to upsell an "earthier" wine. In the end, maybe I'm being harsh. But for NYC steakhouse prices, any of the aforementioned have been better experiences.
Maloney & Porcelli serves up wonderfully cooked and presented food, from the "lobster cocktail" (actually a whole, small lobster) to the whole fish, the exceptionally tender and tasty steaks and the great salads and sides. We tried the restaurant after walking by and seeing the menu, and found it to be superior in every way. My only disappointment was that the dessert menu lacks a chocolate item except for ice cream -- but we really couldn't have eaten dessert anyway after such a fantastic meal.