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Strong tequila drinks like the ones found at Mamá's make any meal seem like a party, no matter what the surroundings. At the midtown location, your party-in-a-glass contrasts with the sober, elegant decor. At the uptown outpost, though, every day is Cinco de Mayo. Bright tiles dot the floors, murals cover the walls and a mariachi band entertains happy crowds of all ages. No one will hassle you about your noisy kids, so sip oversize margaritas to your heart’s content. The exuberance of the diners is not due solely to the food, which is decent and copious but hardly ruckus rousing. Both locations offer essentially the same menu, (although the prices in midtown are 10-20% higher) which includes a range of American-style favorites, like heaping skillets of steamy fajitas, as well as reasonably authentic Mexican fare, like cheesy chile rellenos, marinated rack of lamb and daily fish specials. Refried beans taste not only refried but reheated, although you can console yourself with a soft, oniony guacamole made fresh at your table. But after a drink or two you'll forget all about the food and join the party. — Lauren Aaronson

Thu.-Sun., 7 p.m.—11 p.m.

Fajita mama, $20; chiles rellenos, $15; breaded veal, $16