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Manatus just isn’t divey enough to merit being called a 24-hour diner even if it is open round the clock and has the requisite multipage menu of omelettes, triple-decker sandwiches, and Italian-Greek specialties. The problem, if you want to label it as such, is that this West Village mainstay is just a little too civilized. Booths—roomy for two; a bit tight for four—are upholstered in a muted rose-colored vinyl instead of fire-engine red or garish turquoise. Lighting is either natural (French windows) or homey (recessed incandescent fixtures) instead of vampiric (fluorescents). And unlike many other diners which can only help drunks counteract the previous night’s excesses with French toast made with challah or the diner’s namesake burger (here, a bacon cheeseburger with fried mushrooms and onions), Manatus also has a fully stocked bar should your post-binge self-remedy require the hair of the dog that bit you. Omnipresent sidewalk seating gives smokers a place to eat year-round while a small sunroom at back allows small groups to catch rays without inhaling secondhand cancer. — Drew Pisarra