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The sensory overload of Chinatown's busiest street streams right in through the front door of Mandarin Court—there's a constant clatter of dishes, the din of raised voices from staff, and the chatter of tourists who have descended from their double-decker buses to recoup. The interior is unimpressive by far: Decoration is sparse, with only a few mass-produced paintings on the walls, and diner-style formica tables. Still, during the daily dim sum rush—from 8am to 4pm—the floor teems with staff wheeling around carts packed with dumplings, steamed vegetables, and pork buns, and the tables are full. It's not only for tourists: Neighborhood locals who know their spring rolls make regular appearances. While there is not a particularly wide selection on the menu, dishes wafting by on the metal carts are piping hot, fresh out of the frying pan, and give the opportunity to make your own variety, mixing seafood, chicken, and other dishes within the same meal. While the location provides a constant stream of walk-ins seeking in vain to rest from the throb of the street scene, lunch hours are particularly packed. — David S. Hirschman

While there is no delivery, Mandarin Court will cater parties with large orders.

Three Dim Sum steamed roast pork buns, $1.95; jumbo shrimp pan-fried noodles, $12.95