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Three blocks from its predecessor Myrtle Thai, Manee Thai operates with an identical menu and a slicker interior. Bright orange walls are a smart counterpoint to exposed brick, and backlit niches display sculptures of Muay Thai fighters alongside seated gods. The menu likewise wavers between the base and the divine. Curries rule the kitchen here, satisfyingly spiked with sweet and fiery spices; the basil and kaffir-accented panang and the creamy tamarind and peanut-infused massaman curries are served in generous portions. Elsewhere, fresh vegetable rolls are made with watery iceberg lettuce, and corn cakes taste more of the deep fryer than of their pepper and garlic marinade. Daily lunch specials compensate with a dozen budget-friendly combination options, making Manee Thai a popular takeout and delivery joint for Clinton Hill locals. But the fashionable atmosphere also makes for a compelling dine-in experience. — Laurel Fantauzzo

Massaman curry, $7; panang curry, $7