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Mangiami—whose name urges “eat me”—woos with its good-natured cool. A brick archway separates the sliver of a wine bar and its magazine racks from the dining space. Wood chairs have subtle, zebralike stripes, and each tabletop gets a chalkboard detailing specials and a white tulip. Funk and electronica, kept low enough not to threaten conversation, are favorites of owner and former DJ Gianfranco Costa. He rotates the artwork, often selecting friends’ landscape photos or graffiti-covered canvases, and has steered the kitchen beyond his native Milan. Robust artisanal ingredients and simple garlic and basil seasonings show up in the panini and entrées. Creamy homemade pappardelle is so popular that Mangiami sometimes runs out. Seafood dishes, like charred lemon-flavored salmon and linguine with shrimp and arugula, achieve a light zestiness. — Kate Appleton

Mediterranean salad, $10; linguine with shrimp, $14.50; grilled salmon, $17.