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Anywhere other than New York, Maracas Bar & Grill would be an over-the-top attraction. Like a Mexican-restaurant version of Charo, it plays its dated sparkle and sass for laughs. Red mylar garlands and strings of chili-pepper lights crawl across the ceiling of the expansive dining room. Multi-colored neon signs announce the restaurant’s name above the bar, and colorful rhinestone critters adorn the room’s many mirrored surfaces. Even the bright floral button-down worn by the karaoke host is camouflage against the spinning disco-ball lights. The lengthy menu hits sombrero standards such as nachos, enchiladas, and sizzling fajitas. Nuevo Latino dishes are overly ambitious—pollo relleno is a sort of chicken-breast rollatini; camarones mojo is jumbo shrimp deviled in a spicy red guajillo sauce. What people really come for are the margaritas, available in big and bigger, blended or on the rocks. You’re safe with the sweet standards, but don’t bother with the signature prickly pear, which tastes a bit like cough syrup is one of its ingredients. — Ganda Suthivarakom

Guacamole, $11.95; camarones mojo, $18.95