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With its abundance of chain stores and franchise restaurants, Forest Hills' Austin Street has the feel of an open-air shopping mall. You'd be forgiven, then, for assuming that Mardi Gras is the T.G.I. McBigEasy's of Cajun cuisine—and you'd also be about half-right. Just because this faux-Louisiana eatery—decorated with statues of street jazz musicians—has all the authenticity of a bagel joint on Bourbon Street, doesn't mean they don't get some things right. One of them is the roomy bar area, which holds several tables that make for a far less claustrophobic dining experience than the crimson-walled, dimly lit dining room upstairs. The food is more thoughtfully prepared than it needs to be: The chicken and shrimp in the gumbo starter are appropriately firm even if the roué is bland (nothing a few dashes of Tabasco won't improve), while the Louisiana-style barbecue ribs are tender enough to masquerade as pulled pork. But the real surprise is the catfish. Plump and nicely seasoned, this dish easily overcomes its trash-fish reputation; its accompanying hush puppies are also satisfying, and eschew the greasy heaviness of the jalapeño-cheese mashed potatoes that come with, and stick to, the ribs. — Mark Holcomb

On Fridays and Saturdays reservations are accepted only for parties of 5 or more and only for dining times before 7 p.m.

Catfish platter, $17.95