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Marea

Critic's Pick Critics' Pick

240 Central Park S., New York, NY 10019 40.767261 -73.980037
nr. Broadway  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
212-582-5100 Send to Phone

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  • Cuisine: Italian, Seafood
  • Price Range: $$$$

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Critics' Rating: ***

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Reader Rating:

    7 out of 10

      |  

    5 Reviews | Write a Review

Photo by Matt Dutile

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Hours

Mon-Thu, 11:45am-2:30pm and 5:30pm-11pm; Fri, 11:45am-2:30pm and 5pm-11:30pm; Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-11:30pm; Sun, 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10:30pm

Nearby Subway Stops

1, A, B, C, D at 59th St.-Columbus Circle

Prices

$22-$98

Payment Methods

American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Brunch - Weekend
  • Hot Spot
  • Lunch
  • Notable Chef
  • Notable Wine List
  • Prix-Fixe

Alcohol

  • Full Bar

Reservations

Recommended

Profile

Kinetic restaurateur-chef Michael White doesn't appear to have gotten the news about the fine-dining apocalypse. Marea is a glittering seafood establishment on Central Park South designed the old-fashioned way, with lofty, even imperial ambitions in mind. The floors and walls are fashioned from lacquered Indonesian rosewood, like something you’d find on a Saudi sheikh’s yacht. The dining room is decorated with twirling seashells hand-dipped in silver, and the fish are flown in from oceans around the world and paraded among the tables for diners’ inspection. On my visits, I ordered the Dover sole from the trolley cart, and a vividly orange, spiky-finned John Dory, which had arrived via FedEx from Greece that morning. Unfortunately, neither had that crisp, popping flavor you get from impeccably cooked fish straight from the sea. If it’s freshness you’re after, try the striped bass with spinach, blue foot mushrooms, and almonds, or the swordfish with sunchokes, roasted peppers, and a rich bagna cauda. At Marea, White is engaged in a bald play for Michelin glory (a multi-star jewel, as it were, in their imperial crown), and they’re pulling out all the stops to make it happen. There are lots of fusty liqueurs on the menu, and several hundred bottles of wine, many of them interesting, well-priced whites from the south of Italy. The desserts are proficient, in a classic gourmet way, though rarely uplifting. If you’re in the mood for more nostalgic largesse, try the coconut panna cotta with mango, kiwi, and passionfruit. For something lighter, I recommend the affogato, which is topped with a foamy, zabaglione-flavored ice cream and served in a glass goblet fit for a king.

Brunch With the Fishes

A $52 two-course prix fixe brunch menu is available Sundays from 11:30am-2:30pm; it includes a choice of crudi or antipasti, and pasta or piatti principali. For a $15 supplement, high rollers can get the uovo e caviale: brioche, poached eggs, crab, sea-urchin zabaglione, and caviar.

Recommended Dishes

Dover sole, $76; Afagatto with zabaglione-flavored ice cream, $15

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