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Maremma (the name comes from a cowboy region of Italy located on the Tuscan coast) is the effusive Tuscan chef Cesare Casella's highly personalized, even madcap homage to the frontier life. He wanders among the tables with a trademark sprig of herbs sprouting from his pocket, and his menu is dotted with catchy-sounding dishes like "Sloppy Giuseppe," Tuscan chili, and chicken-fried pork. There are pictures of leathery Tuscan cowboys on the walls, bulls' horns stuffed with wildflowers in the restrooms, and as you sit down to your bowl of pasta, you can enjoy the mournful sounds of Johnny Cash playing on the house stereo.The menu at Maremma is varied and cheap, but given Casella's facility with big, hearty dishes, many of these recipes promise more than they deliver. In the end, pasta is your best bet, particularly the spaghetti with lamb meatballs, and the pappardelle, which is folded with a rich, chocolate-flavored wild-boar ragù. — Adam Platt

Extra

Do your best to avoid being seated upstairs, where the tables are snug and the decibel level is high.

Tasting Menu
Four courses, $49; with wine pairing $75

Recommended Dishes

"Sloppy Giuseppe," spaghetti with lamb meatballs, panna cotta

Related Stories

New York Magazine Reviews

• Adam Platt's Full Review (10/10/05)

Featured In

• Think Italian at These West Village Restaurants (8/13/07)
• Stuffed: Taxidermy in New York Restaurants (4/2/07)
• A Gno-Mistakes Pasta Primer (10/2/06)

Recipes at Maremma

• Three-Radicchio Salad With Anchovy Dressing and Grana Padano (2008)
• Tuscan Chili (2006)