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Despite an easily bypassed storefront, Margon has no trouble keeping its dozen or so closely spaced orange tables filled for lunch, as publicists, well-gelled bankers, and other office types wait in line with bike messengers, construction workers, and the odd intrepid tourist for their choice of cafeteria-style Latin American fare, served on the spot or prepped to go. Many of the lunch dishes are only available once a week, but the stellar Cuban sandwich is daily stalwart. A piquant trifecta of roast pork, ham, and salami, boosted with mayo, garlic, and Swiss cheese, the sandwich is smashed and crisp-toasted until all the flavors blend. Octopus salad, another everyday plate, tosses the tender tentacles in an oily sauce that’s tangy with cilantro, onion, and red pepper. And just about everything but sandwiches comes with what might be Margon's ubiquitous, crowning achievement—a heaped-up plate of rice and rich, meaty beans, either red or inky black. Make sure you get a few fried plantains scattered on top. — John Rambow

Cuban sandwich, $9; octopus salad, $7-$28