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"Your steak will be out any minute," says our waiter. "I just saw the chef chasing the cow." The house specialty, a mammoth porterhouse for four, $164, is pre-sliced, Peter Luger-style, on a hot platter, dripping in a sizzle of its own fat. There are baskets of squeezy Lugerlike onion rolls for additional comfort, and gravy boats of sweet red steak sauce—a co-owner used to work at Luger's Long Island branch. There's even a smattering of wise guys in the crowd, with great white napkins spread expectantly over their bellies. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Sliced tomato-and-onion salad, $6.50; porterhouse steak for two, $82