MarkJoseph Steakhouse

“Your steak will be out any minute,” says our waiter. “I just saw the chef chasing the cow.” The house specialty, a mammoth porterhouse for two or more, is presliced, Peter Luger–style, on a hot platter, dripping in a sizzle of its own fat. There are baskets of squeezy Luger-like onion rolls for additional comfort, and gravy boats of sweet red steak sauce — a co-owner used to work at Luger’s Long Island branch. There’s even a smattering of wiseguys in the crowd, with great white napkins spread expectantly over their bellies.