Are Nick Anderer’s gas-oven Roman-style thin-crust pies as good as the wood-fired ones he made at Marta? Just about. Factor in the price (the slightly smaller pizzas cost $8 to $13 versus Marta’s $19 to $27), and you have yourself a budget-gourmet no-brainer. You can’t afford not to eat this pizza. Among the toppings, we’re partial to the sausage-and-mushroom, plus seasonal specials like the squash-blossom-anchovy number and fall and wintertime’s Brussels sprouts–Pecorino concoction. Also good: chicken meatballs straight-up in a tangy tomato sauce or given the hero treatment and squeezed into a Grandaisy sesame-seed roll with melted cheese and a dash of Sicilian oregano. For dessert, get the gelato soft-serve sundae topped with candied hazelnuts, amaro-spiked chocolate syrup, a drizzle of olive oil, and a sprinkle of sea salt.