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Masa Takayama, the illustrious sushi god from L.A., came to New York with a uniquely Japanese, if slightly insane proposition: that a meal of the highest quality is worth almost any price. It turns out he’s right, but only under the most specific Rashomon-like conditions. Whatever you do, sit at the bar of this quirky, lavishly overpriced little restaurant (not at the dinky, dimly lit tables), preferably in front of Masa himself (not one of his acolytes). The ensuing spectacle, complete with risotto folded with uni and truffles, Kobe-beef sukiyaki, and slabs of foie gras cooked in a little shabu-shabu pot, is part nourishment, part entertainment, and part ancient performance art. It’s not just a meal, it’s an event—well worth the $450 cost of a single omakase dinner (before the sakes are factored in), and as different from the average dining experience as a TV rerun is from a first-rate Broadway show. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Reservations are taken the first week of the month for the following month only—the only seats that matter are those at the bar in front of the chef. The dinner tasting menu costs a minimum of $400 per person and does not include tax, tip, or drinks. Or you can try Bar Masa next door, which has a no-reservation policy and far gentler pricing.

Prix-fixe, $450.

Related Stories

New York Magazine Reviews

• Adam Platt's Full Review (4/26/04)

Best of New York Awards

• Best Foie Gras (2005)
• Best Last Meal on Earth (2004)

Featured In

• Where to Eat 2008 (1/7/08)
• Where to Eat 2008: The Least Politically Correct Dishes (1/7/08)
• 101 Best New York Restaurants for 2006 (1/9/06)

Recipes at Masa

• Grapefruit Granité (2005)
• Cucumber-and-Wakame Sunomono (2005)
• Japanese Sea Bass (Suzuki) With Shisho-Leaf Dipping Sauce (2005)