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You'll hear the names of several classic, expensive, Midtown Mexicans bandied about, but Maya is far superior to all of them. Chef-owner Richard Sandoval (who hails from Acapulco) established his reputation at Savann, but his talent has really exploded at Maya. He combines faithfully executed Mexican classics (these are harder to find in New York than you might think) with restlessly innovative dishes that challenge the palate. The authentic decorations were custom-made in Mexico. — Steven A. Shaw